We did a road trip from Henderson, NV to Santa Fe, NM and Canyon de Chelly was a must stop for us. The trip from Flagstaff to Canyon de Chelly took us on some scenic country across the Navajo reservation. Make sure you have plenty of gas if you go this way, as there are very few towns. We stopped in a very small place where there was a gas station and grocery store. Since there wasn’t a lot of traffic, it was a nice ride. The drawback was that there was nowhere to pull over to get any good pictures. We saw some wild mustangs a couple of times but couldn’t get pictures of them. This was the most direct route to the canyon and showed us some beautiful places. We arrive in Chinle, AZ and begin our day at Canyon de Chelly.
Canyon de Chelly National Monument is owned and operated by the Navajo Nation and is the only National Park service unit that is operated in this manner. It is also one of the longest continuously inhabited by the Navajo. Right now, there are about 40 families living in the park. Although this National Monument sees many visitors every year, it’s not one that is mentioned as often as some of the others such as Chaco Canyon for historic ruins. If you have never been here, add it to your bucket list! A must do is the tour through the canyon with a tour guide. Getting close to the ancient ruins and petroglyphs is an amazing experience. If you like history be sure to stop at the Welcome Center before entering the park. We’ve visited here twice and always see something new and am always amazed at not only the beauty of the canyon, but the history.
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Thing to do
Canyon de Chelly covers 83,840 acres and includes 3 canyons: Monument, Canyon de Chelly and del Muerto canyon. Stop at the Welcome Center as you head into the park and pick up a map and learn more about the park’s rules and regulations. Please be sure to respect the Navajo rules, don’t take pictures of any member of the tribe without asking and don’t move or touch anything in the Monument.
Scenic Drives
There are two overlook drives, north and south, that can be done in about 4 hours depending on how long you stay at each of the 9 scenic overlook spots. On the North rim there is Massacre Cave, Mummy Cave and Antelope House Overlook. On the South Rim there is Spider Rock, Face Rock Sliding House, White House, Junction, Tunnel, and Tsegi overlooks. Tunnel Overlook and Tsegi are very close to each and are where Canyon de Chelly and del Muerto canyon meet. Plan on 2 hours minimum per rim. You can see kivas and other ruins from the overlooks. If you’re short on time, the South Rim is the one to choose. Here you will see Spider Rock which is unique rock formation that shouldn’t be missed. I suggest spending at least one night here so that you can drive both rims and enjoy a guided tour in the canyon. Overlooks are open year-round but be prepared for snow in winter.
Guided Canyon Tours
Plan to do the guided tour while you are here. A tour into the backcountry of the canyon is truly a unique experience. Enjoy a tour into the canyon by vehicle, horseback or hiking. However you decide to get into the canyon, each tour is at least 4 hours. Private companies registered with the Navajo Parks and Recreation Department (NPRD) offer canyon tours in the park. Reservations are recommended from March to October. Use of private vehicles, ATV’s, UTV’s or motorbikes for tours are not permitted in the bottom of the canyon. If you get a tour with a Navajo guide, be sure to ask lots of questions, they are happy to tell you all about the history of the monument and their culture.
Ranger Led Programs
Enjoy a Ranger program including hikes and talks from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Special programs are offered throughout the year. Check at the Welcome Center for current activity schedule. These programs are free. The hikes are rated moderately strenuous to strenuous so be sure you know your hiking ability before you sign up for a hike. Hikes must be signed up for in person and are limited to the first 15 people.
Our Guided Tour
Although doing the rim of the canyon is breathtaking, doing the tour of the floor is the only way to go in my opinion. You get up close to the ruins that date back to the same time as Chaco Canyon ruins. We chose the 4-hour tour with a Navajo tour guide. You get to see the homesteads that are still being used here, our guide took us to his family homestead where they graze their sheep and cattle! You might even get to do some shopping if any of the families are selling their products when you are there. We were lucky both times with families selling, and I got some beautiful art pieces. Depending on the time of year your go, you will probably see some of the family’s animals. The picture below shows some of the horses we saw. We also saw some cows laying in the shade in one part of the canyon. As you go along make sure to check the splendor of colors on the canyon walls. Be sure to check ahead on weather before you go. The canyon floor does tend to flood when rain hits, and you may not be able to do the tour. For more information on the park check out NPRD website. Canyon de Chelly National Monument (U.S. National Park Service) (nps.gov)
Staying a day or two?
There are many options to choose from if you want to spend a day or two here. The first is camping at Cottonwood Campground inside the park. The camping spots first come, first serve. If you prefer to stay in a hotel, The Thunderbird Lodge is inside the park and is owned by the Navajo Nation. You can also set up a tour of the canyon floor through them. The town of Chinle is just a few miles from the park and offers a Best Western, Holiday Inn, Quality Inn or Navajo Land Inn. There are a few restaurant options in town also.
Thunderbird Lodge
We chose to stay at The Thunderbird Lodge primarily for the convenience of scheduling a tour of the canyon with them and staying in the canyon. The lodge is older, but the rooms are clean and have everything you need for a night’s stay. The restaurant is in the original lodge that dates back to 1896. This is cafeteria-style and offers both Navajo and non-Navajo food. Their Navajo tacos are fabulous and if you decide to order the blue corn pancakes, I suggest just getting one to start off. They are about 12″ in diameter, but oh so good. There is also a trading post/gift shop here with many traditional native offerings. If you’re looking for gifts or something for yourself, you should stop in. The lodge offers 3 tour packages, so be sure to check their website to see what fits best for you. Make sure when you are exploring the canyon to take a hat as it gets very hot and the sun beats on your head. If you do a tour with the lodge, they supply water for your trip.
Conclusion
For me Canyon de Chelly is a definite bucket list park to visit. Being able to go into the canyon with a guide who is so knowledgeable is something you can’t get in other parks. It helps to understand what ancient people went through and how it still is home to the Navajo. Even though it may seem a little off the beaten path, it still is a beautiful place in New Mexico, and you can get to other places on the Navajo Nation easily from here. We not only love to travel but hope to inspire others to find their adventure and enjoy all the great places our world has to offer. Even if you just take a quick road trip near your home there is always an adventure waiting for you. Please read more of our blogs if you are interested in other places we have visited to help find your adventure.